An Alternative Way To Create A Collar
I never cut collar pieces from the fashion fabric using the collar pattern. Instead, I cut an accurate duplicate of the collar pattern out of interfacing and fuse it onto a piece of fashion fabric. I believe this produces better results with the finished collar in less time – at least for me.
1. Place a crisp, non-woven piece of fusible interfacing, such as Pellon, at least twice as long as the collar pattern, right-side up over the collar pattern. On one half of the interfacing, mark the center back and one half of the collar. Mark the seam lines for the outside edges of the collar. On the neck edge and other edges that join another pattern piece, mark the cut lines.

2. Fold the interfacing in half wrong-sides together and pin down the center of the interfacing pattern piece.

3. Cut out the interfacing pattern piece carefully. Note: if the collar design has a very sharp point, trim 1/16” from the point to round it slightly. If not trimmed, the fashion fabric may create a lump at the collar point.
4. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong-side of a rectangle of fashion fabric.
5. Place a second layer of fashion fabric right-sides together with the first layer. Along a line (drawn or eyeballed) centered and parallel to the long edges, pin through all the layers.

6. For this step, stretch the long edges as you stitch, and use tiny stitches around the point, pivoting to follow the edge of the interfacing. Sew the collar layers together from the center of the back, around one of the collar points to the neckline seam.
7. Repeat Step 6 for the other half of collar.
8. Tilt the scissors toward the layer that will be the underside of the collar to grade the seam allowance and trim the outer edge seam to 1/8”. Trim the seam at the corners to 1/16”.

9. Press the seam open over a point presser.
10. Turn the collar right-side out.
11. Press the collar carefully to roll the seams to the underside while pulling the underside collar fabric diagonally from the point towards the neck edge to help the seams roll to the underside.

12. To finish the collar, top-stitch close to edge or 1/4” away for the appearance that you prefer.


